The original of this is owned by Mark Hernig at Kick and Stitch Brooms. He did the hand sketches that you will see, and provided the critical dimensions for me to make the CAD drawings so that anyone building this will end up with a working machine.
this one breaks down (conceptually and in it’s construction) into 3 parts,
and the tying barrel and wire brake
you can make all of this with either hardwoods or pine, douglas fir, whatever you can get
lets make the stand first, it’s simplest and it holds everything else together.
4 identical legs, I have them drawn at 2″ x 2 1/2″ x 41 13/64″, with the ends cut at 75°(or 15°), one end has a 4″ tenon.
2 sides, 3″ x 4″ x 20″ with 2 mortices for the ends. 2 ends 3″ x 4″ x 16 1/4″, with 3″ tenons on both ends and 2 angled mortices (75° again) for the legs
the only important measurement is the opening between the sides and ends.. should be 11″ by 10 1/4″
you can adjust the other measurements to suit the material you have to work with.
If you drawbore pin the components together, you don’t need glue and it should last indefinitely.
The clamp is only a little more involved but there are no surprises…
there are 2 long jaws 2″ x 10″ x 55 1/2″ (the bad angular rendering removed a few 64ths). and 2 jaw pads 2 feet 1″ x 2 1/2″ x 8 3/4″. that hold the bottom ends of the jaws in place. 2 cheeks 1 1/8″ x 6″ x 16 13/16″ that connect the clamping lever to the jaws. 4 wedges to lock them in place. 1 clamping lever 2″ x 4″ x 31″
Making the Barrel (or quill) and the tying brake arrangement is probably the most complicated part.
The barrel has to have a hole up the center to accommodate the broom handle while tying on the corn or birch. It has to clamp the handle so that it does not slip. It has to lock in place or at least not be able to rotate in reverse. It needs to have a grip for you to turn it while tying on. It has to be at a good height to sit and tie brooms without putting a kink in your back. It looks to me that most of the old wooden ones use a screw to lock down the handle, a ratchet to stop reverse recoil, some sort of spokes to give you leverage against the tension of the string or wire. And while other arrangements have the height “built in” this one has the unique ability for the height to be set to suit the user.
Making the barrel could seem quite tricky, especially if you don’t feel confident with drilling a long 1″Ø hole. It’s really not.
If you can make a hole through a larger piece like that, get some big stock or even a log 20″ long or longer, 7+ diameter, drill the hole, then center the hole on your wood lathe to turn the barrel. this way the barrel and the base for the spokes is all one piece…
or you could glue up a tube, the hole does not need to be round, so a square or a hexagon or octagon would work just fine… the next graphic shows 4 examples of how to do this:
there are others, pick one that will work for you.
However you make your tube, draw the 2 1/4″ circle on both ends then you can use a plane to bring it down to close enough to work well. Then bring the end 1″, down to 2″ diameter to fit through the side pieces. Make the ring for the spokes from 2 pieces of wood 2″ x 3 1/2″ x 7″. clamp them together to drill a 2 1/4″ hole in the center, bandsaw and smooth the outside, Then drill the holes for the spokes, then glue it together around the hollow shaft.
the ratchet mechanism could be difficult to make… you could use hardwood for it. The original uses a piece of thin metal… an old 7 1/4″ circular saw blade would work just fine. Dull the teeth a bit. Cut the middle out to easily fit over the 2 1/4″ Ø shaft. And drill some holes in it (3 or more) to screw it to the block for the spokes.