The original of this is owned by Mark Hernig at Kick and Stitch Brooms. He did the hand sketches that you will see, and provided the critical dimensions for me to make the CAD drawings so that anyone building this will end up with a working machine.

There were a couple of sneaky angles that I had to get Mark to take extra photo’s for me to see… but once I got them into the drawing it worked out right.

Like most of these, there seems to be 3 parts, or 3 systems. table , frame, and functioning parts (not that the other parts don’t function, they just done move 😉 ), and the Quill, … 4 that’s, 4 parts that make up most of these. lol

Any slab could be used for this (the original seems to be made from a pre used one), glue up 2 by 4’s if you have to, 1 1/2″ to 2″ thick. and 4 legs, 1″ round tenons on the tops of the legs, the rest of the legs shaved to an octagon. The 4 holes for the legs are located 3″ from the ends, and 2 1/2″ from the sides. The angle of the legs is @ 20°, and the sight line is 45°. Notice the square mortise holes. the front two are perpendicular to the face, the back two are 10″ slanted so that the uprights that go there tip back at 10°

Rereading this it occurs to me that you might not know what a “sight line” is, or is for…

When you look at the angles of the legs of a chair, looking from the front there is one angle (splay) and looking from the side there is another angle (rake), but if you rotate the chair until the leg appears straight up and down that is when you are on the “sight line”. When I make a chair I draw the sight line on the chair and I use an adjustable bevel to set the angel of the leg. line the auger up with the sight line and check the angle of it with the bevel.. in the drawing I have located the centers of the holes and drawn the sight lines.

this drawing shows you where the leg holes and all of the other mortises go. as well as one of the legs.

3 pairs of parts make up most of the upper support structure. the back pieces with the 10° shoulders on the tenon, the front uprights, with square shouldered tenons. And the arms with holes in both ends. The rectangular mortise in the arms holds the wire guide block. the tenons are drawn long so that you can make an angled mortice in them and wedge them tightly in place.

If I have the mortises in the right place, the left hand back piece is the thickness of the arm away from the left hand front piece, While it looks like there is no way to mount the arm on the front uprights correctly, simply set the back and front uprights in place, use the 1″ dowel that is destined to have the wire spool on it to hang the arms from the back uprights, swing them up to where you like them or to where the angle between the fronts and the arms is 22.5°. There is a round spacer block of @ 2 3/4″ Ø and 2 1/2″ wide. I’m not sure the round is critical.

The Spacer block is nailed in place, and the leather friction strap is nailed to it, looped around the friction surface on the spool holder rod then tied to the tension lever @ 2 1/2″ from it’s pivot point.

The wire guide is made o fit the mortice in the arms. drill holes to move the peg around as suits the work you are doing.

The tensioning lever is @ 16 3/4″ long, fastened with a loose screw on the left to the left upright. on the far right end there is a string to at comes down to what looks like a heavy duty mouse trap spring mounted to the table.

The wire spool and the friction point are mounted on a hardwood dowel. Something strong like maple or oak. the barrel that is the friction point could be any wood is 3″ Ø and not longer than the 4 1/4″ spacer block (a little shorter would be best). It needs to be securely anchored to the dowel, as does the spool, which also has an outside rim diameter of 3″ and an inner diameter of 1 1/2″ for the wire to wrap onto. This set up has a crank handle for winding wire on so being able to take it apart isn’t needed. But you sort of have to do final assembly with it in the uprights and everything in place.

Then There is the main quill… the focus of the whole, thing as it were.

you could carve this out of a log, or use a wood lathe to turn it, out of a log, you could glue it up like a really thick walled barrel. or glue a big block and bore the hole and turn or carve the outside.

The inside is a 1 1/2″ Ø hole, inside a 2″ Ø shaft.

the larger part could be made separately, a 2″Ø x 8 3/4″ long tube, then a hub with a 2″ hole and a 5″ outside dimeter. About 4 1/8 long with the ratchet carved into one side @ 1/2″ on the face.

Make a pall (the thing that catches the ratchet to stop the broom rotating backwards) that you think looks good. there does not appear to be a spring to keep it pressed on the ratchet you may need one. But there is a keeper so it cannot flip over. it’s not drawn, but it’s in the pictures.

Another thing I didn’t draw is some sort of thumb screw through the quill to actually lock the broomstock in place while binding.

this can be a wood screw, or a steel plate with a threaded hole and a bolt. this quill has a steel plate between 2 of the spokes, there are 2 screw holes to hold it in place, and a threaded hole in the center for a bolt t tighten onto the broom handle. You can see it in the hand drawing.

With all of my plans: copy, use, share, refer to, DO NOT SELL! and consider leaving me a donation at the yellow button.

be well

stay safe

Karl